Frequenty Asked Questions


Q. Can I cut the power cord to install the pump and rewire it?

A. You can but it will void the warranty should you ever require warranty.

Q. How do I winterize my pump?

A. If the pond is going to be shut down for the winter remove the pump and place it in a bucket of water someplace it will not freeze. The pumps have seals and those seals like to be wet. If they are regularly dried and then submerged they will fail sooner. Also many pumps have foam filters and these filters should be kept wet as well to make them last longer.

Q. My pump keeps tripping the GFI why is that?

A. Does the GFI trip right away once you plug the pump in? Or does it take a while?

If it trips right away there are 2 factors which could cause the GFI to trip, you could have a defective GFI. A good way to test is reset the GFI is to unplug the pump and anything else on that circuit. Then plug a hair drier or saw into the outlet. If the GFI trips the odds are that the GFI needs to be replaced. This is more common than you might thing. If the GFI does not trip then plug the pump back in and see what happens. If it works then look to see what else was plugged in to the circuit. Electrical circuits’ have maximum amperage which is normally 15amps and when you have a bunch of things plugged in to them it can cause the GFI to overload and trip.

Is your Pump located a long distance from the breaker? Any distance greater than 75’ requires the correct size wire to run the pumps. Often things will work well but they are operating on the outer edges of specifications and as wire gets hot and degrades or parts get used they create larger resistance which can cause GFI’s to trip. Therefore if your breaker to pump distance is greater than 75 feet we recommend you have an electrician check it out.

If the GFI does trip once the pump is plugged in then unplug it and remove it from the water. Allow the pump to dry out over the next day, clean the pump making sure the impeller is clean and free moving.  Plug the pump back in dry (out of water) and see if the impeller turns well and the GFI does not trip.  Next place the pump in a bucket of water (not pond) and allow it to sit for a few hours. Then plug the pump back in to the GFI and see if it runs. If it runs look to see what else is plugged into the pond. Often when several items are plugged in and both in water you can have an electrical leak which with cause the metal in the pump to go to ground which will trip the GFI. Again this is a good time to call electrician.

If after all this and the pump keeps tripping the GFI it might be a bad seal on the motor and the pump will need to be replaced. This happens very rarely with ProEco pumps and is normally caused because the pump has not been wintered correctly. By storing the pump in water over the winter versus letting it dry out, the seals last longer. Correctly stored pumps can last decades, poorly stored pumps may prematurely fail.

Q. Does having valves partially closed on the outlet of the pump effect the longevity of the pump?

A. No, having a valve is actually a good thing. Pumps like to have some back pressure (this is what we call it). It keeps the pumps from moving to easily which is harder on the motors. This is truer with some pumps vs. other but it is a standard answer. You do not want to have that valve closed to far though. Only reduce the flow a maximum 30%-50%, anything more and it actually can be very hard on the pump. Also it is a waste of energy, which ProEco is does not support.  


Q.  My AP-850 has no water coming out of it when running?

A.  There are a few things to check on the pump;

$11)      Make sure the flow control on the pump is adjusted to the correct opening. If this is correct,

$12)      Unplug the pump and make sure the pump screen is clean, if clean,

$13)      Pull the plastic screen off the pump around the impeller. This will allow you to see the intake of the pump. Make sure the intake is clean. A clogged intake can impede the water flow. If the intake is clean,

$14)      Open the pump end to access the impeller; you do this by turning the impeller cover counter clock wise. When you remove the cover you should see an impeller which has which should turn freely with your finger. Make sure there is no debris around the impeller. If the impeller is clean and moves freely (it is magnetic so there is some resistance);

$15)       Re-assemble the pump and make sure the hose connected to the pump is clear of debris and has no kinks to restrict the flow. If this is all correct,

$16)      Measure the height with a tape measure from the top of the water to the maximum height you would like to have the water go, This is called the “head” , in the catalogue or on the box for the pump you will find that there are specifications which list the maximum head each pump can perform. Example AP-850 has a maximum head of 11 feet, that means there will be no water from the pipe at 11 feet of height. Keep in mind that at 9 feet there will be almost no flow of water only 150 GPH. You might have the wrong size of pump for your application.


Q. Can my SP pump be installed out of water?

A. Yes it can, but it needs to be a flooded suction intake. This means the pump must be lower than the water level; also the intake should be a pipe size larger than the return pipe. The will stop the pump from being starved for water. Also you cannot have the SP pumps in this configuration to far below the water line. It is best to keep it 12”-6” below the water line. If installed to low, there is too much water pressure on the intake side of the pump and the pump intake will start to leak slightly. The intake although sealed is not design for pressure.

Q. Can I run my filter with my SP pump?

Maybe, this is a harder question. There are many types of filters and some you can some you cannot. Also the SP pump has small opening in the screen so only very small partials will go to your filter making it not as effective as it should be. We would never recommend you use a SP pump as a filter pump for these reasons. ProEco is about making your product effective as possible to maximize the energy and value of the goods to have the best performance as possible. We would recommend you look to a filter pump to feed your filters.

Q. I have a Sump Pump which keeps failing every 2 years, someone recommended the SP to replace it, is this a good solution and why?

A. Definitely, although it looks completely different it is the correct thing. We are amazed at the amount of people who have the same issue as you do but continue to replace the sump pump that failed with the same thing expecting a different result. Then when it fails they replace it again, and again and again. The reason your sump pump is failing is that it was never designed to do the job you are asking it to do. To put it in car racing terms, you are asking a drag racer to drive across the country. It will just not last.

The SP pump is specifically designed to the application you need. It is design for true continuous operation. It is also an asynchronous motor, which is more expensive to make however in this application has a huge benefit. Normal pump motors require consistent voltage to operate correctly. When we run extension cords and long power wires the voltage drops. Normal pumps will operate in the conditions but they are starved for power. This will cause them to fail quickly. The SP pump does not have this problem; the asynchronous motor simple slows down a little due to the lower voltage. This is why the SP pump is a great replacement to any sump pump; it also carries a 5 year warranty.

Q. I am trying to fit the SP-6600 into your Pond Vault PV-1822 but it does not fit, how do I make it?

A. When using the Pond Vaults or Skimmers for that matter the outer screens can be removed from the pumps as these are not needed. This makes the pumps a much smaller profile and allows them to fit in smaller places.


Q. I want to connect the FP pump to flexible black pipe but the fitting with pump does not work?

A. The step down hose fittings in the box with the pump are for hose size tubing call non-kink. This is common tubing in the market place. If you would like to connect to pipe which is IPS size (normal pipe size) then you will need a transition fitting. These are available from most pond supply stores or you can use a rubber fitting with clamps on it from the hardware store. The clamp fitting solution is actually very good because then the pump and pipe can be disconnected easily.

Q. Why is the FP a filter pump, and what if I want the pump to run a waterfall greater than the maximum head of the pump?

A. The FP pump is a filter pump because it can pass solids up to 3/8” in size from the pond to a filter. It does this using as little energy as possible. This is also why the FP pump does not have the ability to push the water very high. To make the system the most effective energy wise and filtration wise it is better to have your filter system running 24/365 with the most energy efficient system than have another pump running the waterfall which only runs when you want it to. It can be put on a timer and turned on during the day and off during the night. This make the upfront costs a little more but the long term benefit saves you money. An example of this is, A 1500 Gallon pond with a 7500 GPH waterfall @ 8’, could have the following product cost.

Option 1) EHD-9500 pump has a cost of $1200 and uses 950watts @ $.10/KW = $832/Year

Option 2) FP-3200 pump has a cost of $400 and uses 200watts @$.10/KW = $175.20 /year

                SP-5600 pump has a cost of $600 and uses 430 watts @$.10/KW = ($376.68/2 run only during day) = $188.34/year  


Option 1) costs $1200 plus $832/year = $3696.00/ 3years

Option 2) costs $1000 combined and $363.54/year = $2090.62/ 3 years

Two pumps versus one pump the saving are $1606 over 3 years. Every year you will save more money.

Conclusion: When the flow rate of a waterfall is greater than 3600 GPH it is always better to use 2 pumps than 1 big pump. It will save money, have superior filtration and lasts longer.

Q. What is the valve on the side of the FPS pump for?

A. The FPS has a valve to allow a second inlet of water from a different location. Normally the water is sucked into the pump from around the pump but the FPS has the ability to draw water through that valve. This means the FPS could pull water from around it as well as from a skimmer or a second inlet on the other side of the pond. You could say the FPS can do the job of two pumps. The FPS works well with our in pond skimmer IPS-200.


Q. My HPP pump is not filling with water in the basket why?

A. The HPP pump is a self-priming pump, but it needs that water to be supplied easily, if the water being pulled into the pump slower than it is being pushed out than the basket will have a hard time filling. Air gets locked in there. A solution is to make sure the lid seal is in place and then close the valve on the outlet side of the pump about 30%. This will help slow the water and should fill the basket.

If you are still having problems the pipes feeding the pump could be the issue. They should be a size larger than the outlet pipe. Example if the outlet is 11/2” then the inlet should be 2”. Also the problem could be that during construction the length and height of the inlet pipes are too great causing the pump to work harder than it can to suck the water. Make sure the system is designed correctly.  

Q. How far can the HPP suck water from?

A. The HPP can lift water 6 feet however keep in mind that pipe length plays a role here. A 2’ lift from water level to the pump with 15’ of pipe length is actually more like 5’ of lift, not 2’ because you have to factor the pipe run into the equation.

Q. Can I pull water from the bottom of my pond and from the skimmer with a HPP?

A. Yes you can, provided you do a few things correctly, first make sure to calculate the lift correctly. You will need to factor in all pipe runs. If the pipe from the pond bottom is 10 feet and from the skimmer is 10 feet then you have 20 feet of pipe run, which is about 4 feet total of lift. Also when plumbing 2 pipes together make sure to do so using a wye fitting not a tee. When water is under suction in ponds the less friction the better and wye fittings have lower friction the normal tee fittings. It is also wise to have valves on the separate lines to isolate them if needed. Also remember if 2 2” lines are coming together join them to a 3” line not another 2” line, this will just create restriction.

Q. My suction line has a hard time priming?

A. Check all the suction line fittings for any leaks. Any air that can get in will stop the pump from priming its self. Also make sure to check the intakes in the pond because if they are clogged then the pump will not be able to build suction. Next is to make sure that the lift is not outside the pumps ability. After that air locks in the pipe can cause the pump to not prime.

With the pump off, partially close the outlet valve on the pump (90%), open the basket lid and push a garden hose down the inlet pipe. Turn the hose on and run for a while. After a few minutes quickly remove the hose, close the lid and turn the pump on. The pump should begin to the build suction. It may take a few minutes. It might be very slow at first but slowly it should build. Once the basket is full of water slowly open the outlet valves and it should all be good. 


Q. Why do I need a filter on my pond?

A. You really don’t. Ponds can be balanced with the perfect amount of plants, sunlight, shade and fish. They can be perfectly clear and clean. In nature you see these with smaller lakes, they will find a balance. However in our yards it is harder than it looks. What filters do is allow you to have fewer plants, or more fish, or more sunlight or more shade. They act as a buffer if you like allowing a pond to be balanced through the support of a filter. The filter assists by removing the organics which can cause imbalances in the eco system.

Q. What are the key features I should look for in a filter?

A. Ease of maintenance and frequency. All filters will need cleaning, when that is required and how much work and the mess it can create is the most important. Filters can very easy and quick to clean or complicated and messy. Systems can be designed to require cleaning once a year or once a day. Understand the volume of work you want to do and design around that. Having a pond should not be a second job.

Q. What is the difference between Pressure Filters and Bio-logical or gravity flow filters?

A. Pressure filters are under the same pressure as the pump can create. They are sealed and the water is pushed through the filter. These filters can be below the water level or anywhere is the system.

Biological filters or gravity filters, the water enters the filter and is not under pressure.  The water flows through the filter and exit’s using gravity. These filters must be at a point where the water exists and return back to the pond under gravity.

Both filter work well and both styles have benefits and draw backs.  


Q. How do I winterize my CPF Filter?

A. If you are in areas where the water will freeze than during the winter it is best to disconnect the filter and bring it indoors for the winter. Clean the filter well before shutting down; keep water in it so the foam pads do not dry out.

Q. Why does water run out the drain fitting of my CPF is the unit defective?

A. No this is normal that is why all CPF filters are supplied with ball valves. Due to the volume of debris that can be flowing through the filter and the valve system on the top of the filter it would be very difficult to have a perfectly sealed valve. This is why you should never permanently plumb the drain valve to anything. The water leaking out the drain line only happens if the line is open. The filter is shipped with caps or a ball valve which can seal the drain. If used correctly there is no leakage. 

Q. Why does my CPF filter keep tripping the GFI?

A. Water is most likely in the UV ballast area of the filter. This can be caused by 2 things. There is a crack in the quartz sleeve which separates the water from the UV lamp. This happens when the filter is dropped or miss treated.

More commonly the incorrect pump is being used with the filter. The CPF filters, like all filters this style have a maximum pressure of 22 feet (9.5 psi) and a maximum lift of 6.5 feet. If you exceed this or the pump has the ability to exceed this, than the O-ring around the quartz sleeve will leak and the GFI will trip. This is a safety feature built in to the filter. Greater pressure could crack other parts which could cause the water to drain from the pond. By having the GFI trip hopefully the pump will stop as well. The only pumps we recommend to be used with the CPF filters are the FP pumps which are specifically designed for these filters.

Q. Can I use a by-pass with valves on the CPF so a different pump can be used?

A. No, it will not work and here is why. Water takes the past way of least resistance. Many professionals have tried to do this and think it is okay, but it is not. What you are doing is having a larger than allowed pump feed the filter with some of the water by-passed with pipes and valves around the filter so the filter only received the correct amount of water. It will work for a little while, and then what happens is the filter begins to get dirty, so less water can pass through it. More water begins to by-pass, less water through the filters means less filtration which causes the pond to get dirty. What typically happens next is that people close the by-pass valve a little to get more flow through the filter. This in turn builds the pressure up in the filter, which then exceeds the specification and causes the O-ring around the quartz sleeve to leak making the UV lamp fail and GFI to trip. Solution is to have 2 pumps if you really need that much flow.

Q. I had too large of a pump on my CPF filter and water filled the quartz sleeve, is the unit broken?

A. No, you can access the UV ballast, sleeve and bulb through the top of the filter. Drain the water from the quartz sleeve and let it all dry out over 24 hours.  Once dry re-assemble it making sure to use all the correct O-rings. Normally everything should work.

Q. How often should I be cleaning my filter?

A. This is based on your system and the volume of waste it might have. A good rule is to check it weekly, if when flushing the water is very dirty then flush sooner, if it is clean then flush less frequently.

Q. What is the recommended method for cleaning a CPF filter?

A. Cleaning the CPF filter can be very easy and effective if done correctly. First open the drain line ball valve, and then turn the flow handle on top of the filter to drain. Pull up on the cleaning handle slowly and hold the handle up for a few moments. Normally about 6 -10 seconds, this will drain filter bucket of the debris you have stirred up. Release the handle and let it go back down, pull up and hold again for 6-10 seconds again. Repeat this step about 3 to 5 times. When complete, turn the flow handle back to filter on the top lid and close the drain ball valve. There can be a little dirty water running out of the return line back to the pond, this is normal.

Q. How long does the UV lamp last?

A. UV lamps normally will not just stop working; they begin to fade the moment they are powered up. The effective use is normally 12 months of continuous operation regardless if they are glowing or not. Therefore lamps should be replaced every 12 months of operation.

Q. I opened my CPF filter up and cannot get it back together again, what am I doing wrong?

A. There is a very large O-ring which goes on the bucket of the CPF; many people try to put the O-ring in the wrong place when putting the lid back on. The O-ring needs to be right up near the edge of the top of the bucket not down in the seat. With the O-ring placed near the top gently place the lid on. When you then press the lid down tight the O-ring will roll down making the seal. While pressing the lid down, apply the clamp around the lid and bucket. Press the clamp in place. 


Q. Water is over-flowing the filters and running out the side, what is happening?

A. Two things could be causing this, either the flow to the filters is greater than the outlet can allow. Solution is to reduce the flow of water to the filter. The maximum flow to the filter is 3000 GPH. If you are not exceeding the flow rate then the outlet could be restricted. The outlet pipe for the bio flow cannot be reduced; in fact it should be increased. The outlet must flow downwards back to pond. It cannot have elbows restricting flow.

Another reason the flow could be restricted is that you have not assembled the filter correctly. See the owner’s manual to make sure the filters and trays are correctly positioned. When the filter is first set up oxygen will restrict the flow of water going through the foam media, allow the foam to become saturated. This might take a few hours.

Q. When setting up the Bio flow filter I cannot get the venturi fittings to line up correctly, what should I do?

The venturi fittings need to be positioned with the air intakes pointing up; this directs the water downward when entering the filter. It also injects oxygen during the first phase of filtering called the aerobic phase. There should be two sets of rubber washers for each venturi fitting, one is used on inside of filter and the other is used on the outside. As long as one washer is used on each venturi a seal is made. Since there is variation in fittings and material you may not be able to use both washers per fitting. That is okay as long as one washer is used and the air intakes are point upwards and there are no leaks when the water is flowing.


Q. How do I backwash my HCF Filter?

The instruction manual gives a very good detail about this,

1. Turn off pump.

2. Release filter pressure by loosening the Pressure Relief Valve until the pressure drops to zero. Retighten the Pressure Relief Valve.

3. Rotate valve handle to the BACKWASH position.

4. Turn on the pump.

5. When the water in the sight glass runs clear turn off the pump.

6. Rotate the valve handle to the RINSE position.

7. Turn on the pump.

8. When the water in the sight glass runs clear turn off the pump.

9. Rotate the valve handle to the FILTER position. Turn on pump for normal operation.

Q. When I clean or backwash my HCF filter there is always a dirty cloud in the pond after, why is this?

A. During the clean process you should make sure that when the pump is in the rinse cycle the sight glass is running clean water. The dirty cloud water is left in the pipes from the cleaning process. It is not cause for huge concern provided it is a small amount. This can normally be resolved by rinsing well.

Q. Can I bury my HCF Filter in the ground?

A. Yes, but you will be blocking the drain line for winterizing so you will need to open the filter up at the end of season and manually remove the water so the filter does not freeze and crack.

Q. Can I plumb a fitting on to the drain line to drain my filter if buried?

A. This is not advised as the valve could be left opened and the pond drained. We never recommend permanently connecting any drain lines. Also the threads on the drain fitting are difficult to connect to for this reason. 


Q. My CUV keeps tripping my GFI, why?

A. The ballast could be getting water because you have too large of a pump on the system. The CUV can only handle 10 feet of head pressure. Any more pressure and the O-ring will leak letting water into the ballast. This safety feature protects the Pond from having the CUV bursting.

Q. What is the correct amount of water to go through the CUV?

A. This is based on the size of unit you have, however a rule of thumb is the smaller the flow the better treatment you will get. When the water passes by the lamp quickly it is less effective than when passing slowly. Follow the instructions supplied.

Q. Can the CUV be left in the sun or do they need to be mounted in shade?

A. The CUV can be left in sun however the shade is better. Any plastic left in sun light eventually will break down faster. The CUV are covered for the warranty period if left in the sun but they will last longer if mounted out of sun.

Q. Why did my UVC lamp stop working after 3 months?

We do not manufacture the UVC lamps however we do try to supply quality units. Often they can be damaged from transport or handling incorrectly. Never directly touch the lamp. Oils from your hands can cause the lamp to prematurely fail. Also never operate the lamps without water running through the CUV. Doing so will cause the units to overheat and fail.

Q. Does the CUV kill bacteria?

A. It can, however if installed correctly it will not. If the water is moving too slowly over the lamp it will affect more Bacteria. If the water is moving at the correct flows it will kill very little. CUV is design to breakdown the cell walls of algae floating in the water and make those cells stick together. This is called flocculating. These cells now are heavy and larger and get stuck in the filter. 


Q. I have had my ionizer running now for a week and I see no level of copper in the water, is it working?

A. It should be, firstly several things effect the operation of the ionizer. The level of alkalinity in the water plays a huge effect. Hard water coats the anodes stopping the release of ions. Use the included test kit to monitor the pH, Alkalinity and Copper. Pond salt can be used to improve your alkalinity.  

Q. Even with the ionizer running my algae is still out of control, what can I do?

A. The ionizer requires time to work. It cannot just kill all algae quickly. The ions in the water attach to algae cells, for every algae cell there requires an ion. Millions of cells require millions of ions. Therefore the ionizer requires time to build up the levels of ions in the water. This is why no copper ions will register on the test strips. As long as Algae is present there will be no copper on the test strips. When a copper ion comes in contact with a cell the copper ion becomes inert and will not register therefore as long as algae is visible in the pond do not expect to have copper registering on the test strips.  

Q. If Copper is not visible on the test strip how do I know the ionizer is working?

If the power light is working and the alkalinity and pH are at the recommended level then the ionizer is working. Also, if the algae is being controlled the ionizer is working.

Q. Can the copper from the ionizer kill my fish or plants?

A. Normally no, the levels we are looking for are so low they can’t. However if you were to take the ionizer and place it in a very small amount of water (like 60 gallons) and turn the ionizer on to full and leave it there and not test the water eventually (many days or weeks) it could get to levels where it could be harmful. Use the included test strips to monitor and adjust the copper level to keep it in the recommended range.  

Q. The display on my ionize keep changing numbers and outputs, is it defective?

A. Most likely not, check to make sure the ionizer is not installed near a UVC light or a large pump. These types of electrical devices create energy fields which effect ionizer controllers. To test this disconnect the controller from the anode and plug it into a receptacle away from the other devices. If the display is normal and operates correctly it is not defective. The solution is to install the ionizer away from those other devices and having it powered by a different electrical circuit.

Q. When using my ionizer test strips, why can I not get a copper reading?

A. Often it is very difficult to build levels of copper in a pond because the copper once in contact with algae will be neutralized. There for if there are equal parts copper ions and algae cells there will be no visible copper level on the test strips. 



Q. Is it better to use stone foam or concrete to secure rocks in water falls?

A. We strongly recommend stone foam because it is carbon black/ green, which blends much better in the water features vs. concrete. Unlike concrete it also expands to fill the smallest of voids. Once cured, excess can be removed easily. Additionally concrete can leach minerals into the pond causing water quality issues.


Q. What can I use to repair a ripped rubber liner?

A. EL10 is rubber liner adhesive that can be used to bond to pieces of liner together or repair damaged liner. Simply clean the area you wish to bond making sure that it’s completely dry. Apply a generous amount of EL10. Cover adhesive with liner and apply weight till cured.


Q. When running multiple nozzles how do I size the pump?

A. Every nozzle has a minimum flow rate at a specific head for the display height required. When multiple nozzles are used the flow rates are added together and the largest head requirement is used as the base line. Add any additional head requirements for the piping and fitting, to the base line.                                              

Example: Three nozzles which each require 8 gpm @ 15 feet equals 24 gpm at 15 feet, plus 20 feet of piping and for elbows , equals additional 6 feet of head. Therefore, a pump which can deliver 24 gpm @ 21 feet of head is required as a minimum.

Q. My nozzles in my water feature are clogging up all the time, what can I do?

A. Many nozzles require clean require very clean water to operate properly. Often pre-filters can be used on the suction side of the pumps. However these need to be clean regularly. Many fountains will have filtrations systems which operate to constantly clean the water. Additionally devices like ionizes and CUV can be added to improve water quality.

Q. I would like to have the foam jet nozzle effect however I would not like to see the nozzle; can this be below the water level?

A. The snorkel cannot be below the water level because it allows air to be injected into the water spray creating the effect. However the nozzle can be cut off below the water level and a vinyl tube attach to it which can be plumbed to a less visible location. Multiple nozzles can be connected to the same tubing. The end of the tubing must be above the water line to allow air into the nozzles.


Q. I would like to build a 10 foot long by 2 foot wide pond less waterfall, how big of reservoir do I need for my vault?

A. Based on an average which is 3 in of depth the calculation is 10 x 2 x 0.25 x 7.5 = 37.5 total gallons and then you do 3 x 37.5 = 112.5 gallon reservoir as a minimum.